I’m not going to lie; arriving in Varanasi and seeing the burning Ghats with your own eyes is going to really open your eyes. I’m not going to say it’s easy. In fact, it’s you should prepare yourself for an adventure and I can almost guarantee you’ll leave a changed person.
It is intense.
Having visited India multiple times now – including bringing our kids along – we can safely say that nothing quite prepares you for the sheer, intensity of this place. There are cows freely roaming the streets (but I’m sure this is not your first stop in India and you’re probably getting used to seeing cows galore) and people literally everywhere.
This is a place that feels completely different from anywhere else in the world.
Welcome to Varanasi
Varanasi is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities and stands as the spiritual heart of Hinduism. It is a place of open-air cremation, spiritual pilgrimage and rituals.
It is raw – very raw – it is smoky, and it is fascinating.
Here is our honest Away With The Steiners guide to experiencing the sacred burning ghats of Varanasi and navigating this incredible, historic city.
Quick Facts
- What is a Ghat? A “ghat” refers to the long, iconic stretches of stone steps leading directly down into the holy waters of the River Ganges. They line the edge of the Old City, serving as places for bathing, daily prayers, and sacred rituals.
- The Main Burning Ghat: Manikarnika Ghat is the principal, most auspicious open-air cremation ground in the city.
- The Best Way to Navigate: Strictly on foot through the narrow alleys, or floating down the river by boat.
- Our Number One Guide Recommendation: Ravi Gaur (WhatsApp: +91 85769 16590). Booking a local guide here isn’t just helpful; it completely transforms your experience.
Understanding the Burning Ghats
To truly understand Varanasi, you have to understand the ghats. The city’s edge is an endless staircase of stone, but two specific locations – Manikarnika Ghat and the smaller Harishchandra Ghat – are dedicated strictly to open-air cremations.
They operate 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year.
For Hindus, dying in Varanasi is the ultimate goal. It is believed that passing away here grants instant Moksha, liberating the soul from the endless cycle of rebirth and death. Because of this, widows, the elderly, and the terminally ill travel from all over India to live out their final days in the holy city.
Visiting the Burning Ghats
Visiting the burning ghats in Varanasi is a raw and emotionally experience.
As you approach, you will see enormous piles of firewood stacked high along the top of the stone steps. Every log is meticulously weighed and priced to calculate the cost of the cremation.
You Do Need To Be Prepared
We had heard about the burning ghat. I mean, that is what most tourists hear about in Varanasi. But we didn’t realise we would walk around the corner and straight into it.
It was right there. It was our first visit to Varanasi and there was literally a body being cremated on the burning ghat in front of us.
We couldn’t see the body. But there is no mistaking what is going on. The family was all around it as soon as we could see it.
We were all glad to have met our now much trusted guide, Ravi that morning so that we weren’t walking into this completely alone.
What Can You Actually See?
You will witness families silently gathered around blazing funeral pyres on the river’s edge, firstly washing and filling the bodies of loved ones with water from Ganga.
This is not designed to be a tourist attraction, but rather a profoundly respectful celebration of life and transition.
In the west this would likely be a private event. But here families don’t discourage you from being there. In fact they actually don’t mind you being there at all.
Why Ravi is Our Top Choice of Guide
Navigating the intensity of the burning ghats and the local touts can be overwhelming on your own. (India is known to be overwhelming at the best of times!
That is why we always recommend connecting with Varanasi guide Ravi Gaur.
Ravi is a registered, born-and-raised local guide with a deep, passion for his city.
He is very welcoming and very knowledgeable, steering you through the narrow streets and pacing the experience of Varanasi perfectly.
- Contact: You can reach Ravi directly via WhatsApp at +91 85769 16590.
Customizing Your Experience with Ravi:
- Drift Down the Ganga: You can coordinate with Ravi to hire a traditional wooden boat. At sunrise or sunset you can drift down the River Ganges. Ravi explains the history of the crumbling palaces, the meaning behind the smoke rising from the burning ghats, and secures you the best seats to watch the evening Ganga Aarti fire ceremonies.
- Walking Tour: If you prefer to stay on land, Ravi can guide you through a walking tour of Old Varanasi. It is a maze of tiny, vibrant, winding alleyways with market stalls, stray monkeys, and hidden temples that you would probably miss without a local expert.
Getting to Varanasi
Depending on where your Indian adventure begins, reaching the sacred city is quite straightforward:
- By Flight: Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport in Babatpur is roughly 25km outside Varanasi. You can easily book domestic flights from major hubs like Delhi or Mumbai via Skyscanner. We recommend arranging an airport pickup through your hotel or Ravi to avoid the frantic taxi scrum outside the terminal.
- By Train: If you are traveling from Agra or Delhi, the train network is a classic, memorable route. For speed, book the daytime Vande Bharat Express (roughly 7 hours from Agra). If you want to save on accommodation, choose an overnight express train. Our top tip is to book 2A (AC Two Tier) class through platforms like 12GoAsia for the added comfort of privacy curtains and sheets!
Where to Stay in Varanasi
We always recommend staying away from the hyper-congested center of town and instead choosing a quieter, southern ghat:
- Hotel Temple on Ganges (Assi Ghat): This is our go-to base. The rooms are simple and budget-friendly, but the location is awesome. It puts you steps away from the peaceful morning and evening aartis at Assi Ghat and it has a rooftop (simple) overlooking the river.
Where to Eat in Varanasi
- Mona Lisa Café: Near Assi Ghat, this is a casual, traveler-friendly spot with a decent menu and low tables that are perfect for relaxing after a long day of walking and exploring.
- Bhumi French Bakers: A well known local bakery famous for its fresh pastries, croissants, and decent coffee when you need a little break from intense local spices.
Enjoy Varanasi
Varanasi will challenge you, but it will also give you some of the most incredible travel memories of your life.
Drop Ravi a line on WhatsApp, pack an open mind for the incredible experience of the River Ganges, the burning ghats and the hospitality of Varanasi and get ready for another totally unique destination in India.
Questions answered and ready to plan your adventure? Check out our Ultimate Golden Triangle Itinerary to see how to link Varanasi with Jaipur and Agra!
Do you want a good guide in Varanasi? Let us know in the comments if you connect with Ravi!
Safe travels, adventurers!
Read More India Inspiration
- Our Detailed & Easy 2-Day Itinerary Of Jaipur.
- Train Travel In India.
- India Tourist e-Visa: Our Step-By-Step Guide.
- 10 Things To Do In Mumbai.
- 10 Things To Do In Kochi & Kerala.
- Best Tourist SIM Card For India.
- What To Wear In India.
- 4-Day Kochi & Kerala Itinerary.
- Travelling India By Bus: Intercity, Tourist & Sleeper Buses.
Travel Planning for India & Beyond
These are the companies we use while traveling and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. It’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere in Asia through 12Go.
- Skyscanner – Our favourite flight search engine. They can search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide – A huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world. Everything from walking tours to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for short or longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Especially for your first time in Varanasi!
Gavin is our people-meeter wherever we go. For all the stories we share about the kindness of strangers in Uzbekistan, Morocco, Saudi Arabia and more, it is Gavin that extends a handshake and meets a new friend without even sharing the same language.
