Our Rajasthan Travel Guide: Palaces, Forts, Deserts, Drivers & Friendly Faces.

If you’ve followed our family travel adventures over the years at Away with the Steiners and Away to India, you’ll know that India holds a massive piece of our hearts. Having travelled to India six times as a family with our boys, Oscar and Harry, people often ask us the same big question: “Where should we start for our first trip to India?”

Our answer is almost always Rajasthan.

Known across the globe as the legendary “Land of Kings”, Rajasthan is a complete feast for the senses. It’s a place where history isn’t tucked away behind museum glass – it is alive, vibrant, and surrounding you at every turn. 

It’s unreally colourful!

Every major city comes painted in its own signature hue: the Pink City of Jaipur, the Blue City of Jodhpur, and the Golden City of Jaisalmer. Then you’ve got romantic reflection lakes in Udaipur, camel safaris in the Thar Desert, mind-blowing regional food, and above all, the kindest, most welcoming people you’ll ever meet.

Having spent years exploring this state across multiple trips, we’ve put together our ultimate, tried-and-tested guide. We’re sharing our personal favourite places to stay, drivers and guides we trust and recommend, what to eat, and how to navigate the region seamlessly without the stress!

What is Rajasthan Famous For? 

Rajasthan is basically India’s ultimate kingdom of colour, culture, and royal history. It is in the northwest of India, and it’s super famous for its massive hilltop forts, gorgeous lakeside palaces, and bustling desert cities like Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Jaisalmer. 

Then, beyond all the stunning Rajput architecture – think intricate pink sandstones, blue-painted alleys, and grand palaces – it’s also home to vibrant local traditions, rich food, and the golden sand dunes of the Thar Desert and Indian camel safaris! 

How Long Do You Need in Rajasthan? 

If you’re planning a first visit, giving yourself about 7 to 10 days is the sweet spot to comfortably explore the main highlights of Rajasthan without feeling too rushed. 

That gives you plenty of time to cover the iconic Golden Triangle extensions like Jaipur, Udaipur, and Jodhpur, plus a trek out to the desert to Jaisalmer too. If you’re short on time, a quick 4-day trip is still doable to squeeze in two of the major cities. But an extra week lets you really soak in the culture, markets, and desert highlights as well. 

Jaipur: The Pink City of Rajasthan

Most journeys into Rajasthan start in Jaipur, which forms the world-famous “Golden Triangle” alongside Delhi and Agra. While Agra sits outside Rajasthan, Jaipur serves as the cultural threshold to the state. 

It is a city of high-energy bazaars, weaving auto-rickshaws, and staggering hilltop forts. It is seriously stunning and every part like the pictures you see of colourful and vibrant India! 

Iconic Jaipur Forts

  • Amer Fort: The undisputed star of Jaipur. This sprawling honey-hued palace complex features the intricate Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors), where a single candle flame reflects thousands of times across delicate inlaid mirror tiles.
  • Nahargarh Fort: Perched high on the Aravalli hills, head up here right at golden hour for the absolute best panoramic sunset views over the sprawling pink city below.
  • Jaigarh Fort: A must for history buffs, housing the colossal Jaivana Cannon, which was built in 1720 and was once the world’s largest cannon on wheels!
The iconic pink Hawa Mahal Wind Palace in Jaipur.
The iconic pink Hawa Mahal Wind Palace in Jaipur.

Things To Do in Jaipur

Right in the heart of the walled Pink City stands the iconic Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds). This is the most famous image of Rajasthan! 

It is an extraordinary five-story honeycomb facade palace that features 953 small windows (jharokhas). These were built so royal ladies could observe street festivals below without being seen. 

Just a short walk away is Jantar Mantar, a UNESCO World Heritage site filled with giant 18th-century stone astronomical instruments that can still predict local time within seconds.

Where To Stay in Jaipur

Every time we return to the Pink City – including during our family Group Trips – we stay at the same traditional Haveli.

This is a beautiful, family-run guesthouse located right in the heart of the city, within easy walking distance of the Hawa Mahal. 

Our Trusted Local Jaipur Contact 

Navigating Jaipur’s traffic and finding quiet spots is night-and-day easier with a fantastic driver. Raja is our go-to contact here. He knows every shortcut, quiet photo vantage point, and hidden street food corner across the city. Having someone like Raja takes all the friction out of exploring!

If you are short on time, we highly recommend booking a full-day tour with Raja

How to book:

  • WhatsApp: Raja Rabbani at +91 9928130309
  • Instagram: @rajarabbani96

A local guide can help you navigate the history and, more importantly, handle the logistics of getting between Amer and the Old City efficiently. 

Flower markets of Jaipur, Rajasthan.
Exploring the colourful flower markets of Jaipur with Raja.

Bikaner: Famous for the ‘Rat Temple’

Heading north into the Thar Desert brings you to Bikaner, a fascinating “Red City” built from crimson sandstone. 

This is one of the Rajasthan cities that many first-time travellers skip on their itineraries. (We did too!). But it has a few (very) quirky sites that it is famous for…

Sandstone Temples & The Rat Temple

Bikaner is famous for its intricate architecture, but its most iconic destination sits about 30 kilometres south in Deshnoke: the Karni Mata Temple, universally known as the Rat Temple

Here, over 25,000 black rats (known as kabbas) live inside the temple complex and are protected, fed, and revered by devotees. Catching a glimpse of one of the rare white rats is considered a sign of immense good fortune!

A young couple buying offerings at the Rat Temple in Bikaner, Rajasthan.
A newly married young couple buying offerings to Karni Mata and the rats – believed to be descendants of the Goddess Karni Mata – to pray for strength and fertility.

Where to Stay in Bikaner 

In Bikaner, we stay at The Prince Haveli. The reviews are fantastic and the owner Atik and his staff are very gracious hosts. The Haveli has been lovingly restored and is located right in the centre of the old city. 

It is a basic accommodation, but the rooms are comfortable, and it is an affordable way to experience a traditional Haveli in Bikaner. 

Our Contact for Bikaner

For exploring Bikaner’s Old City alleys, organizing street food walks, or arranging a day trip out to Deshnoke, connect with local guesthouse networks or private driver services. 

We had a great day out with Atik from The Prince Haveli and can highly recommend him as a great day tour for Bikaner. 

Jaisalmer: The Golden City of Rajasthan

Jaisalmer is our favourite place in Rajasthan! It is situated deep in the Thar Desert near the western border, it feels completely removed from the frantic pace of modern life. Which, as far as first time trips to India go, Jaisalmer is worth the flight out first to then make your way back across Rajasthan. It is a great place to start in India.

Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Qila)

Rising out of the golden sands like a massive sandcastle, Jaisalmer Fort is one of the world’s few remaining “living forts”. While most historic forts across India operate purely as daytime museums, Jaisalmer’s golden fort up on the hilltop is home to roughly a quarter of the city’s population! 

Wandering its narrow stone alleys just on a wander about is a cool experience on its own. You’ll find ancient Jain temples with mind-blowing carvings, bustling chai stalls, and family homes decorated with hand-painted wedding invitations on their exterior walls. There is lots going on inside the Jaisalmer Fort! 

Desert Camel Safari in Jaisalmer

A trip to the Golden City isn’t complete without heading out into the dunes. We always recommend an overnight camel safari into the quiet, non-touristy stretches of the Thar Desert, cooking simple meals over an open campfire, and sleeping outdoors under a blanket of desert stars. 

I know I keep saying this; but Jaisalmer really is unlike anywhere else in India. The desert is a very cool experience. If you get the chance to visit Jaisalmer – grab it! 

On camel safari in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan.
Nabu and Hakkam preparing snacks and masala chai at our desert camp for the night.

Our Contacts for Jaisalmer

Padam from Wanderlust Guesthouse is our most recommended contact in Jaisalmer for the best place to stay. He and his team organise an amazing desert camel safari in Jaisalmer and Padam can help book your trains or buses to continue on your way through Rajasthan. 

Along with Padam, meeting our local friends Phoenix (Bhawani) and his brother Sawai transformed our first trip to Jaisalmer. Joining them at their family home to roll fresh rotis and share stories with their family is what travel is truly all about. 

Pushkar & Ajmer

Ajmer and Pushkar are both spiritual cities in Rajasthan and close together to visit both. They are separated by just 15 km (about a 30-to-40-minute drive) across the Aravalli hills. 

While Ajmer is a bustling urban centre famous for its Sufi heritage, Pushkar is a famously laid-back, sacred temple town beside a desert lake.

  • Pushkar: A quiet spiritual town built around a sacred lake, believed to have formed where Lord Brahma dropped a lotus flower. The lake is surrounded by 52 bathing ghats. It has a relaxed, slow-paced atmosphere that is perfect for taking a breather mid-trip.
  • Ajmer: Just a short drive over the Aravalli hills is Ajmer, home to the famous Ajmer Sharif Dargah (the shrine of Sufi saint Moinuddin Chishti). It stands as one of the most important pilgrimage sites in all of India, welcoming people of all faiths.
The Ghats of the Holy Lake in Pushkar with large steps that give access to the water.
The Ghats of the Holy Lake in Pushkar with large steps that give access to the water.

Where to Stay in Pushkar 

Inn Seventh Heaven in Pushkar is a lovingly restored haveli with a fantastic rooftop vegetarian cafe.

Jodhpur: The Blue City of Rajasthan

This is India’s famous ‘Blue City’ of Rajasthan. Though I have to be honest; it isn’t quite as blue as the famously Blue City in Morocco! 

Mehrangarh Fort & The Old City Alleys

Mehrangarh is arguably one of the most impressive fort structures in India. Inside, the meticulously curated palace museum houses royal palanquins, ancient armoury, and ornate mirrored rooms. 

After spending the morning exploring the fort walls, head down into the maze of blue streets in the old city to discover hidden stepwells (baoris) and bustling spice markets surrounding the central Clock Tower.

Blue, more blue and the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort in the city of Jodhpur, Rajasthan.
Blue, more blue and the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort in the city of Jodhpur, Rajasthan.

Udaipur: The Rajasthan ‘Venice of the East’

Udaipur is widely considered the most romantic city in India with regal white marble palaces all surrounding the Udaipur Lake Pichola. 

Lake Pichola & City Palace

Lake Pichola forms the beating heart of Udaipur. It is a cool experience at any time of day. But taking a sunset boat ride gives unforgettable views of the world-famous Lake Palace (Jag Niwas), which appears to float seamlessly on the surface of the water. 

Overlooking the lake is the Udaipur City Palace – a massive, sprawling complex of granite and marble courtyards, towers, and colourful glass balconies that has been lovingly preserved over centuries.

Where to Stay in Udaipur

  • Hotel Lake Star: We stayed here. It is a family run business with breakfast included and great views from the simple, but spacious rooftop restaurant. 
  • Amet Haveli: Perched right on the water’s edge with completely unobstructed views across the lake to the illuminated City Palace and Lake Palace.
  • Jagat Niwas Palace: A gorgeous, authentic heritage stay set inside a 17th-century lakeside mansion right in the centre of the old town.
Staying at Hotel Lake Star in Udaipur, Rajasthan.
We enjoyed the location and friendly, simple family-run Hotel Lake Star.

What to Eat in Rajasthan

Rajasthani cuisine is bold, rich, aromatic, and historically crafted for desert living. 


Here are a few of the dishes we love to eat (or found interesting to try) in Rajasthan to add to your culinary checklist:

  • Dal Baati Churma: The undisputed signature dish of Rajasthan! Hard wheat balls (baatis) are baked over charcoal, cracked open, drenched in warm ghee, and served with spicy lentil curry (dal) and a sweet, crushed wheat dessert (churma).
  • Ker Sangri: A unique, tangy curry made from wild desert beans (sangri) and dried berries (ker). It is a staple of the Thar Desert that you won’t find anywhere else in the world.
  • Lassi at Shop “312” in Jaipur: Defintiely stop at Lassiwala 312 in Jaipur. Look specifically for the original shop marked with “312” or “Since 1944” to try the thick, creamy lassi served in traditional disposable clay cups (kulhads).
  • Laal Maas: A fiery, rich mutton curry cooked with local Mathania red chilies, traditionally prepared for royal hunting banquets.
Making bread Pakora for breakfast in Bikaner.
Making bread Pakora for breakfast in Bikaner.

How to Get Around in Rajasthan

Navigating Rajasthan as a family or solo traveller is absolute manageable. But like any travel in India it is much easier with a bit of forward planning:

  1. Private Drivers: For traveling between cities or reaching off-the-beaten-track spots like Bikaner, hiring a private driver is comfortable, affordable, and stress-free. Connecting with trusted local drivers like Raja in Jaipur or Padam in Jaisalmer makes all the difference.
  1. Trains: Riding the Indian Railway network is an iconic cultural experience. We love the trains in India! For long-distance legs between major hubs like Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Jaisalmer, book AC 2-Tier or AC 3-Tier sleeper classes in advance via 12GoAsia.
  1. Private Sleeper Buses: Modern AC Sleeper buses are a clean, comfortable alternative to trains, particularly for desert routes like Jaisalmer to Bikaner or Jodhpur.
  1. Auto-Rickshaws: The ultimate choice for short trips within tight city centres. Always agree on the fare with the driver before hopping in!
Bus in Jaisalmer to Jodhpur, Rajasthan.
Fresh fruit right by the bus door en route from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur. Great service right?

Useful Contacts of Guides and Drivers in Rajasthan

Over our seven visits so far, we have built a trusted network of awesome local drivers and hosts whom we recommend to everyone:

  • In Delhi: Contact our fab driver Sunny and his brother. They are protective, highly reliable, and make conquering the capital as smooth as can be.
  • In Jaipur: We always use and highly recommend Raja. He knows the Pink City inside out.
  • In Jaisalmer: You cannot find a better team than Padam and the crew at Wanderlust Guesthouse. Padam is a legendary host who treats you like family and can sort out your dream desert camel safaris. Phoenix is a great local guide and the kind of guy who will invite you for lunch in his family home

Contact These Awesome Guides 

Recommending driver Raja for Jaipur, Rajasthan.
With Gavin’s Mum and our friend and driver, Raja at the Amer Mosque in Jaipur.

Essential Practical Tips for Your Trip

There are a few tips that make India travel just that much smoother: 

  • Respect the Water: Rajasthan is a desert state that faces real water scarcity. Be mindful of your water usage in hotels and guesthouses, especially near historic monuments.
  • Dress Modestly: Covering shoulders and knees is respectful, widely appreciated, and helps you blend in comfortably – especially when visiting temples or small rural villages.
  • Embrace the Pace: India is noisy, vibrant, and constantly moving. Leaning into the unique rhythm of the country with a smile makes for an extraordinarily rewarding adventure.

Enjoy Rajasthan

Having travelled across India six times as a family, Rajasthan remains the one place we find ourselves longing to return to time and again. 

Questions answered and ready to plan your adventure? Check out our Ultimate Golden Triangle Itinerary to see how to link Rajasthan!

Did you give our drivers and guides a message? Let us know if you connect with Raja, Phoenix and Padam!

Safe travels, adventurers!

Read More India Inspiration

Travel Planning for India & Beyond

These are the companies we use while traveling and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

  • Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. It’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally. 
  • 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere in Asia through 12Go.
  • Skyscanner – Our favourite flight search engine. They can search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.  
  • GetYourGuide – A huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world. Everything from walking tours to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
  • SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country. 
  • World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for short or longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). That is one of the big questions not to miss asking!

 

Oscar, Sarah, Harry and Gavin
Hi! We are the Steiners. We're a family from New Zealand - living in Rarotonga!

We've been travelling full-time for over six years now all around the world and our favourite thing is to share that joy of adventure and travel.

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