If there is one city in India that feels like it has been plucked straight from a fairy-tale, it is Jaisalmer. Known as the “Golden City”, it rises out of the Thar Desert like a massive sandcastle. (Literally!). But while the great Jaisalmer Fort—one of the world’s last living forts—takes centre stage, the true architectural soul of the city lies in the beautiful havelis in Jaisalmer.
Having spent significant time exploring the narrow lanes of this desert outpost (our favourite place in India) we’ve put together this guide to the most beautiful havelis in Jaisalmer you can visit, along with everything you need to know to plan your trip.
About Havelis in Jaisalmer (and India)
What exactly is a Haveli?
I have to say that before we came to India I’d never heard of a Haveli before. But the Havelis in Jaisalmer are a beautiful place to start!
These “lace-like” mansions – the Havelis all over India – were built by wealthy merchants and ministers in the 18th and 19th centuries.
The Havelis in Jaisalmer
The Havelis in Jaisalmer are carved from the local yellow sandstone, so they feature stonework so fine and delicate that it is often mistaken for wood. But it is a beautiful yellow gold sandstone!
7 Most Beautiful Havelis in Jaisalmer
These are seven of the famous Havelis in Jaisalmer that you can visit on your trip to the Golden City.
1. Patwon Ki Haveli
This isn’t just one house; it’s a cluster of five grand havelis built by a wealthy trader for his five sons. It is the largest and most flamboyant of the Havelis in Jaisalmer.
- The Detail: Look closely at the beautifully carved distinct balconies (jharokhas). No two are exactly alike. The facade is a masterclass in sandstone carving, featuring intricate patterns that look like embroidered silk.
- Inside: Part of the haveli is now a museum where you can see how the wealthy merchant class lived, complete with traditional costumes, turbans, and ancient cookware.
2. Nathmal Ki Haveli
This haveli served as the residence (another) of the Prime Minister of Jaisalmer.
It is famous for a unique architectural quirk: it was built by two brothers, Halu and Lulu, who started working on opposite sides of the building simultaneously.
- The Detail: Because the brothers didn’t communicate perfectly, the two halves are not perfectly symmetrical, though they harmonise beautifully.
- Don’t Miss: The two massive sandstone elephants guarding the entrance, each carved from a single block of stone.
3. Salim Singh Ki Haveli
Built by the powerful and somewhat feared Prime Minister Salim Singh in 1815, this haveli is easily recognised by its unique shape.
It is narrow at the base and expands at the top, earning it the nickname “The Ship Palace!”
- The Detail: The top floor features 38 elegantly carved balconies that look like the feathers of a peacock.
- Inside: The arched roof and the blue-painted ceilings are stunning, though the structure is more fragile than the others, giving it a haunting, ancient feel.
4. Shreenath Haveli
Located right in the heart of the old city, Shreenath Haveli is a 450-year-old masterpiece that once belonged to the Prime Minister of Jaisalmer.
What makes this one of unique havelis in Jaisalmer is that it is still a living residence.
- The Experience: Part of it has been converted into a boutique guesthouse, allowing you to actually walk through private courtyards that have been in the same family for centuries.
- The Detail: The doorways are incredibly low—built that way to force visitors to bow as they enter as a sign of respect to the house and its inhabitants.
5. Mandir Palace (Badal Mahal)
This is a sprawling complex that combines several styles of architecture across different eras. It serves as the residence of the royal family of Jaisalmer.
- The Detail: The Tazia Tower, a five-tiered structure within the palace, was built by Muslim craftsmen as a gift to the royal family. Each floor has its own distinct balcony design.
- Inside: The palace houses a museum with royal artefacts, including traditional carriages and ancient weaponry.
6. Vyas Haveli
While smaller than Patwon Ki Haveli, Vyas Haveli is a stunning example of the craftsmanship found in the Brahmin quarter of the city.
- The Experience: This haveli is often quieter than the main tourist spots, offering a peaceful look at the golden stone carvings. Plus, it’s located near the Sunset Point, making it a perfect stop in the late afternoon.
- The Detail: Pay attention to the intricate jaali work (stone lattice screens) which allowed women of the household to watch the street festivals without being seen from the outside.
7. The Havelis Inside the Jaisalmer Fort
While most of the famous named havelis are in the town below, the Jaisalmer Fort itself is packed with incredible residential architecture. Many of these are tucked away in the narrow residential quarters where locals still live.
These havelis are often more intimate and give you a sense of the fort’s 800-year history.
- The Experience: Wandering the lanes inside the fort is like being in a living museum. You’ll find families sitting on the “otlas” (raised platforms) outside their carved doorways.
- Don’t Miss: The Raj Mahal (Royal Palace) within the fort, which features stunning stone lattice work and royal chambers that overlook the entire golden city.
Other Things to Do in Jaisalmer
While the havelis in Jaisalmer are enough to keep you occupied for a couple of days, the Golden City has so much more to offer:
- Jaisalmer Fort: Wander the narrow lanes where 3,000 people still live. It is the only “living fort” in India where you can find homes, shops, and restaurants inside the walls.
- Ethical Camel Safaris: No trip is complete without a night under the stars in the Thar Desert. Avoid the tourist traps at Sam Sand Dunes and head further out to Khuri or the non-tourist dunes for a more authentic experience. We recommend a safari with Wanderlust Guesthouse.
- Gadisar Lake: A man-made reservoir surrounded by small temples and shrines. It is beautiful at sunrise when the golden stone reflects on the water.
- Jain Temples: Located inside the fort, these seven interconnected temples from the 12th century feature some of the most mind-blowing carvings in all of India.
- Lunch in a Family Home: For a truly local experience, we highly recommend arranging a meal with a local family. It’s the best way to try authentic Ker Sangri or Lal Maas.
Logistics: How to Visit the Havelis in Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer requires a bit of planning to reach. Once you are there it is easy to get around.
Getting There
Jaisalmer is tucked away in the far west of Rajasthan, close to the border with Pakistan.
- By Train: This is the most popular way to arrive. The Runicha Express (14087), and the Ranikhet Express (15014) are daily overnight trains. Other options include the Shalimar Express (14646) (select days). There are also frequent trains from Jaipur and Jodhpur.
- By Bus: You can take an AC sleeper bus from Jodhpur (about 5-6 hours) or Bikaner (about 6 hours). The roads are generally in good condition.
- By Air: Jaisalmer has a small domestic airport with seasonal flights (usually October to March) from Delhi, Mumbai, and Jaipur.
Getting Around in Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer is remarkably easy to navigate, primarily because its historic core is so compact.
Since the Jaisalmer Fort is a pedestrian-only zone, you’ll spend most of your time exploring its narrow, winding alleys on foot. In this old city area is where most of the Havelis in Jaisalmer are.
- Walking: The old city and the fort are best explored on foot. The lanes are too narrow for cars.
- Auto-Rickshaws: These are the most efficient way to hop between Gadisar Lake, the vibrant local markets, and from the station to your guesthouse. Always agree on a price before you start.
- Jeeps: If you are heading out to the desert on a Camel Safari or to the abandoned village of Kuldhara, you will need to book a 4×4 Jeep tour. Your guesthouse can arrange this.
Best Time to Visit
Jaisalmer is deep in the desert, so timing is everything.
- Peak Season (November to February): The weather is perfect—sunny days (around 22°C) and cold, crisp nights. This is also when the Jaisalmer Desert Festival takes place (usually in February).
- Shoulder Season (September, October, and March): It starts to get hot, but the crowds are gone and hotel prices drop.
- Avoid (April to August): The heat is extreme, often exceeding 45°C. Many desert camps close down during these months; though we have also visited Jaisalmer in the summer!
Where to Stay in Jaisalmer
To get the full Golden City experience, we recommend staying at Wanderlust Guesthouse. This is where we stay every time we visit Jaisalmer.
Though there are plenty of options for accommodation:
- Wanderlust Guesthouse
This is our favourite spot in Jaisalmer. It’s located outside the fort walls, offering the best views of the fort lit up at night. The owner, Padam and his team are local experts and run fantastic, ethical desert safaris. - Suryagarh Jaisalmer
If you want absolute luxury, this is a stunning fortress-style hotel located out in the desert. It’s pricey but offers an incredible royal experience. - The Gulaal
A beautiful mid-range boutique hotel with a pool—a luxury you will definitely appreciate after a day of walking in the desert sun. - Hotel Jaisalkot
Located on the outskirts, this hotel feels like a private castle with massive courtyards and traditional Rajasthani decor.
Final Tips for Your Trip
As with all travel in India, a little bit of planning makes for an overall smoother journey. Jaisalmer is no exception!
- Water: Always drink bottled or filtered water. The desert sun is unforgiving, so stay hydrated!
- Modesty: When visiting the Jain temples or any religious site, ensure your shoulders and knees are covered.
- Bargaining: In the markets, haggling is expected. Be firm but friendly; it’s all part of the local culture.
- Photography: Most havelis charge a small fee for cameras or professional equipment. It is usually around 50–100 INR.
Enjoy the Havelis in Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer is beautiful city, especially at sunset when the sandstone begins to glow. Whether you are admiring the carvings of Patwon Ki Haveli or watching the stars from a sand dune on an overnight camel safari, it is a place that will capture your heart.
Planning a longer Rajasthan loop? Check out our guides on the best things to do in Bikaner and how to navigate the train from Bikaner to Jaipur!
Have you been to the Golden City? Which of the havelis in Jaisalmer was your favourite? Let us know in the comments below!
Safe travels, adventurers!
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Travel Planning for India & Beyond
These are the companies we use while traveling and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. It’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere in Asia through 12Go.
- Skyscanner – Our favourite flight search engine. They can search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide – A huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world. Everything from walking tours to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for short or longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have travel insurance before further planning these Havelis in Jaisalmer!
Hi! I’m Sarah. I am the self-confessed dreamer, travel-schemer and the main editor behind this blog. I love to write, and it is a dream come true to share so many experiences together and inspire others in our stories.
