This is all about how we got the bus from Jaisalmer to Bikaner – and why we did that route.
Because while many travellers follow the well-trodden path to Jodhpur, heading north toward Bikaner takes you deeper into the heart of the Thar Desert. The road is long, but it is more off the beaten track and the most efficient way to make this trek is by bus.
We were headed even further north to Amritsar (again) and Punjab. But when we heard about its sprawling fort, world-class snacks, and the legendary Karni Mata (Rat) Temple we wanted to check out Bikaner too.
Now we’ve put together this guide to help you master the journey by bus Jaisalmer to Bikaner as well. 🙂
Why Take the Bus to Bikaner?
The rail connection between Jaisalmer and Bikaner can be a bit tricky, with limited timings that don’t always suit a traveller’s schedule.
We originally headed for Bikaner as a stop in between Jaisalmer and north to Amritsar. But we couldn’t figure out a train to get there from Jaisalmer. There were a few awkward middle-of-the-night trains, but we then couldn’t work out how to even buy tickets online.
For this part of Rajasthan, the bus is the (better) backbone of desert transit.
You can usually book a seat just a day in advance, giving you more freedom to stay an extra night in Jaisalmer if you’re not ready to leave just yet. (Or you aren’t organised; as we weren’t!).
Part 1: Choosing Your Bus Jaisalmer to Bikaner
What’s the Ride Like?
You essentially have two choices when booking this route:
1. RSRTC (Government Buses)
These are the local workhorses. They are non-AC, with bench seating and windows that slide open to let in the desert breeze (and a fair bit of dust).
It’s an authentic local experience. You’ll be traveling with families, sacks of grain, and local traders. Though if I can be totally honest; I wouldn’t recommend these types of buses for intercity. They really are basic when they say basic.
- Best for: Budget travellers and those looking for a truly local feel. Or for the very short journeys to the outskirts of a city. Like you will do in Bikaner!
2. Private AC Sleeper/Seater
These are the “tourist” buses, though they are mostly used by locals looking for comfort.
They are usually air-conditioned and offer a mix of reclining seats and sleeper berths.
- The Sleeper Berth: These are small, raised cabins with a sliding door and a mattress. They are great for a 5–6-hour trip if you want to lie down and read or take a nap in relative privacy.
- Best for: Escaping the heat and travelling in (relative) comfort.
Read All About Travel By Bus In India.
Part 2: Timetable, Costs, and Tickets
The route by bus from Jaisalmer to Bikaner is not as popular as the other mainstream routes from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur and Jaipur.
However, there are daily buses that operate this route.
What Time is the Bus Jaisalmer to Bikaner?
There are two daily buses (in theory) from Jaisalmer to Bikaner departing from Jaisalmer at 06:00am and 2:00pm.
- IMPORTANT: Do check when booking a ticket as the departure times for the bus to Bikaner is not as regular as other destinations in mainstream Rajasthan – and departure times are more ‘fluid’!
How Long is Jaisalmer to Bikaner?
The journey by bus Jaisalmer to Bikaner takes between 5 to 6.5 hours, depending on the bus type and the number of roadside stops.
What Does it Cost?
- Government Bus: Roughly 350 to 500 INR.
- Private AC Seater: Roughly 600 to 800 INR.
- Private AC Sleeper: Roughly 900 to 1,300 INR for a single or double berth.
Where to Buy Tickets
There are various travel agency companies in Jaisalmer that advertise bus tickets and train ticket bookings. Or you can (in theory) book your bus tickets in India online.
Though we found the easiest way – by far – is to ask your accommodation to call and book a bus ticket directly on your behalf.
We always stay at Wanderlust Guesthouse in Jaisalmer and the owner, Padam, called the day before and booked a ticket for the bus Jaisalmer to Bikaner for us.
Buying Tickets Yourself
If you are looking to buy them yourself, you can check online or try one of the many small travel agencies in Jaisalmer.
- Online: We recommend using RedBus or 12GoAsia. You can see the bus layout, choose a seat away from the bumpy wheel arches, and pay with international cards.
- Jaisalmer Travel Desks: Almost every guesthouse and small shop near the Gopa Chowk (fort entrance) can book a private bus for you.
The Bus Stop in Jaisalmer
Where does the bus depart from in Jaisalmer? Is there a central Jaisalmer Bus Stop?
There isn’t a central bus station in Jaisalmer. But most of the buses Jaisalmer to Bikaner depart from Hanuman Circle.
- Hanuman Circle Bus Stop
WW85+78 Kishan Ghat, Rajasthan, India
As with all travel in India, double check with the travel agency or your accommodation host for the most up-to-date point of departure.
Part 3: The Route and Stops – Jaisalmer to Bikaner
The road from Jaisalmer to Bikaner is primarily National Highway 11 (NH11). It is surprisingly well-paved, cutting a straight line through the desert, covering roughly 300-330km and taking about 5-6 hours to travel by bus.
As you leave the Golden City, the sand dunes of the Thar begin to flatten out into a vast kind of scrubland.
The Mid-Way Break
About three hours into the trip, the bus will pull over at a roadside Dhaba (restaurant). This is usually near Pokhran or Phalodi.
- The Snack: Grab a hot, sweet chai and some freshly fried pakoras. This is also the time to stretch your legs.
- The Facilities: Restrooms at these stops are very basic (squat toilets). Always have your own toilet paper – and (plenty of) hand sanitiser ready!
Arriving in Bikaner
There is one main bus stop for the bus Jaisalmer to Bikaner.
On the outskirts of Bikaner the bus does stop a few times. Though it’s easy to tell these aren’t major bus stops.
The main bus stop in Bikaner is busy and obvious with auto-rickshaws, taxis and PEOPLE everywhere.
Brace yourself to be swarmed with drivers as soon as you hop off the bus. Like everywhere in India you should be ready to negotiate firmly and fairly for a fare to your accommodation in Bikaner.
The Journey: What to Expect
We found the journey to be quite comfortable, and in hindsight, we were very pleased with our choice of an early morning departure. While the morning sun can feel quite strong through the glass, the bus eventually closes all windows to allow the air conditioning to work effectively, keeping the cabin cool.
The seats were cozy, and our driver was good, making the trip feel secure and steady—a welcome contrast to some of our more hair-raising experiences on mountain sleeper buses elsewhere in India!
Our Bus Jaisalmer to Bikaner
So, would we recommend it?
Yes. Overall it was a good trip. We left early and felt fresh for the journey. We had a good driver this time and stopped on the way for snacks and a leg stretch.
The boarding process can be a bit of a scramble as everyone rushes to get seated, so being prepared for a little chaos at the start is helpful.
We were also glad to have booked seats near the front of the bus. For a shorter daytime journey like this, opting for standard seats rather than the upper sleeper berths definitely felt like the right call for comfort and visibility.
Part 4: Where to Stay in Jaisalmer and Bikaner
Here is where we stay in Jaisalmer and Bikaner.
In Jaisalmer
We always stay at Wanderlust Guesthouse. It’s located outside the fort walls, meaning the rooftop views of the fort at sunset are world-class.
The owner Padam and the staff are experts at desert logistics. They do an amazing Camel Safari in the Thar Desert. Or they can arrange a rickshaw to get you to the bus stand on time. We highly recommend Wanderlust.
In Bikaner
In Bikaner, we stayed at The Prince Haveli. The reviews are fantastic and the owner Atik and his staff are very gracious hosts.
The Haveli has been lovingly restored and is located right in the centre of the old city.
It is a basic accommodation, but the rooms are comfortable, and it is an affordable way to experience a traditional Haveli in Bikaner.
Part 5: Things to Do in Jaisalmer and Bikaner
These are two of the incredible historic city destinations in Rajasthan. There are lots of cool – and certainly some unique – things to do in Jaisalmer and Bikaner.
In Jaisalmer
- Jaisalmer Fort: Wander the only living fort in the world where people still reside within the ancient walls.
- Camel Safari: Head into the dunes for an overnight stay under the stars. We always go with Wanderlust Guesthouse for their non-tourist, ethical approach.
- Gadisar Lake: A peaceful man-made reservoir perfect for a sunset boat ride.
- Lunch With a Local Family: Try something really special and be hosted by a local family for lunch in their home in Jaisalmer.
In Bikaner
- Junagarh Fort: One of the few major forts in Rajasthan not built on a hilltop. The interiors are some of the most opulent and well-preserved in India.
- Karni Mata Temple (The Rat Temple): Located in nearby Deshnoke, this is one of the most unique temples in the world, where thousands of “holy rats” are revered. Seriously!
- The Camel Research Centre: Visit in the late afternoon to see hundreds of camels returning from the desert. You can even try camel milk ice cream!
- Old City Walk: Bikaner’s old city is a labyrinth of red sandstone havelis with carvings so fine they look like lace.
Part 6: Tips For the Bus Jaisalmer to Bikaner
As with all travel in India, a little bit of planning makes for a slightly smoother journey. The bus Jaisalmer to Bikaner is no exception!
- Secure Your Bags: Large backpacks go in the storage hold under the bus. Always keep your valuables (passport, camera, money) in a small bag that stays on your lap or inside your sleeper berth.
- The Middle Rule: If you want a smoother ride, book a seat in the middle to the front of the bus. The back can be
quitevery bouncy on the desert roads. - Pack Layers: Even if it’s roasting outside, private AC buses can be freezing. Keep a lightweight fleece or scarf in your day bag.
- Arrival Rickshaws: When you arrive at the Bikaner bus stand, you will be swarmed by rickshaw drivers. Have the name and address of your hotel ready, and agree on the price before you get in.
- Offline Maps: Signal can be spotty in the middle of the Thar. Download an offline map of Bikaner so you can track your progress and know exactly where you are when the bus drops you off.
Final Thoughts
Travelling from Jaisalmer to Bikaner by bus is more than just a transit day; it’s an opportunity for another cool, Rajasthan experience. You can see the desert as it really is—vast, remote, and beautiful – with some of the sparse and spread-out smaller towns on route.
While the journey is dusty and bumpy in parts, pulling into Bikaner for the next adventure is worth every mile.
Ready to explore more of Rajasthan? Check out our Ultimate Golden Triangle Itinerary to see how to connect the desert cities with the rest of Northern India!
Do you have questions about traveling in India by bus or train? Drop them in the comments below—we’ve ridden these roads and rails many times and love to help!
Safe travels, adventurers!
Read More India Inspiration
- Our Detailed & Easy 2-Day Itinerary Of Jaipur.
- Train Travel In India.
- India Tourist e-Visa: Our Step-By-Step Guide.
- 10 Things To Do In Mumbai.
- 10 Things To Do In Kochi & Kerala.
- Doing A Camel Safari In Jaisalmer.
- What To Wear In India.
- 4-Day Kochi & Kerala Itinerary.
- Travelling India By Bus: Intercity, Tourist & Sleeper Buses.
Travel Planning for India & Beyond
These are the companies we use while traveling and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. It’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere in Asia through 12Go.
- Skyscanner – Our favourite flight search engine. They can search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide – A huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world. Everything from walking tours to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for short or longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have travel insurance before planning that bus Jaisalmer to Bikaner!
Hi! I’m Sarah. I am the self-confessed dreamer, travel-schemer and the main editor behind this blog. I love to write, and it is a dream come true to share so many experiences together and inspire others in our stories.
